Turbo installation checklist
A new turbo is only as reliable as its oil supply and fitting. Hand this checklist to your mechanic.
Last updated 2 October 2026
Skipping these steps is the most common reason a new turbo fails within days, and it also affects your warranty.
Before fitting
- Find and fix what killed the old turbo: oil supply, air filter and intake, exhaust and DPF, injectors and crankcase breather.
- Check the part number on the new turbo matches the old one, including the actuator type.
- Change the engine oil and oil filter to the grade your vehicle maker specifies.
- Replace the turbo oil feed pipe, or clean it until no carbon remains. Clear any filter screen in the banjo bolt.
- Check the oil drain pipe is clear, unkinked and runs downhill all the way to the sump.
- Clean the intercooler and intake pipes if the old turbo leaked oil or broke apart. Fit a new air filter.
- Inspect the exhaust manifold for cracks, broken studs and debris.
Fitting
- Use new gaskets and O-rings on every joint. Never reuse old ones.
- Do not use silicone or liquid sealant on oil feed or drain joints.
- Do not adjust the actuator rod. Electronic actuators may need a calibration or learn procedure with a scan tool.
- Make sure no rag, bolt or debris is left in the intake or exhaust.
First start
- Prime the turbo: pour clean engine oil into the oil inlet and turn the shaft by hand.
- Where possible, crank the engine for a few seconds with fuel disabled to build oil pressure before it fires.
- Start and let it idle for a few minutes without revving.
- Check every oil, coolant, intake and exhaust joint for leaks while it idles.
After fitting
- Drive gently for the first few hundred kilometres, avoiding full boost and high RPM.
- Recheck the oil level and all fittings after the first drive.
- After hard driving, idle for a minute or two before switching off.