Turbo, core, actuator or repair kit? A buying guide
The cheapest part is only a saving if it fixes the actual fault. Use this to match the part to the problem.
Last updated 2 October 2026
Compare the options
Complete turbocharger
- Fixes
- Any turbo failure, including cracked or rubbed housings and heavy damage.
- Choose it when
- You want the lowest-risk, bolt-on fix, or the housings are damaged. Usually the safer choice for VGT and electronic turbos.
- Not the right fix when
- The fault is only the actuator, a hose or a boost leak. Diagnose first.
Turbo core (CHRA)
- Fixes
- Worn bearings, seals or shaft, oil leaks, shaft play.
- Choose it when
- Your compressor and turbine housings are sound: no cracks, no rub marks from the wheels, flat flanges.
- Not the right fix when
- A wheel has touched the housing or a housing is cracked. A new core in a damaged housing fails early.
Actuator
- Fixes
- Boost faults, limp mode, a broken rod or diaphragm, an electronic actuator fault code.
- Choose it when
- The turbo spins freely with no oil leaks or play, but boost control has failed.
- Not the right fix when
- The vanes inside the turbo are seized. A new actuator cannot move them.
VGT nozzle ring
- Fixes
- Sticking or seized variable vanes, over-boost and under-boost codes.
- Choose it when
- A workshop is servicing a VGT turbo whose core is healthy and can set the vanes up correctly.
- Not the right fix when
- Fitting at home, or the core has bearing play. Turbo makers generally recommend VGT units be replaced complete.
Repair kit
- Fixes
- Worn bearings, thrust parts, piston-ring seals and circlips.
- Choose it when
- A rebuilder with a balancing machine is reconditioning a turbo whose shaft, wheels and housings are within spec.
- Not the right fix when
- There is no access to core balancing, or the shaft or wheels are damaged.
Before you buy anything
A replacement turbo fails again quickly if whatever killed the old one is still there. Most turbo failures trace back to oil: too little reaching the bearings, or dirty oil. Before ordering, have your mechanic check:
- Oil level, pressure and condition, and when the oil was last changed
- The oil feed pipe for carbon or kinks, and the drain pipe for blockages
- The air filter and intake pipes for damage or loose clamps
- The exhaust manifold for cracks or loose bolts, and on BS6 diesels, the DPF and EGR
Not sure what is wrong? Read turbo failure symptoms and causes.
Genuine, OE-supplier and aftermarket
- Genuine (OEM): supplied in the vehicle maker's packaging. Usually the most expensive.
- OE supplier brand: made by the company that supplies the factory, such as Garrett, BorgWarner/TEL or Holset, sold under its own name.
- Aftermarket: made by independent manufacturers. Quality varies by brand, which is why we list the brand on every product.
What else to replace with a turbo or core
- Engine oil and oil filter
- Turbo oil feed pipe, or at least clean it thoroughly
- All turbo gaskets and O-rings (never reuse them)
- Air filter, if it is not new
Then follow the installation checklist.